2008 Japan Three Island Tour: April 1st:

  We awoke in the valley to sounds of song birds and rushing water. Outside, you could see heavily forested slopes converge from all sides down to the resort village. The sky was again bright blue!

  After breakfast, we geared up and rode away from the ryokan, while the staff waved goodbye. We headed south along the Sea of Japan. The rugged coast was dotted with many small islands and rock formations. Sea birds and small fishing vessels cruised the coastline. At times, we had spectacular views of distant coastline south.  Mountains met the sea until they were out of sight. As I rode along the water, I saw the waves rolling in, and looked to the horizon. China was out there somewhere. At one time, the Chinese tried to take over Japan and couldn't. The Sea swallowed them up.  Japan has always been protected and nourished by its oceanic protector.

   We lunched at a restaurant on the coast. We could see a small island not too far out, where someone had constructed a Shinto Gate. It seems that any small island and on any country road you will find these. Though the Japanese don't seem to be religiously overzealous, there does exist a profound layer of spirituality throughout the country.

    Upon seeing it, I suggested to Mr. Hirata that we stop by the next shrine we see. As it so happened, a nationally famous shrine with the namesake of Shoin was just down the road. We parked our bikes and walked around the tranquil courtyard. The garden was well manicured and the shrine itself left you with a peaceful feeling. We took turns washing out hands, offering coins and praying. At the end of the visit, Arch put his hand on my shoulder and pronounced that this type of experience is a must for anyone visiting Japan. I made a promise to myself that we would always stop here on future trips.

   The next stage of riding took us into the hills. The road seemed to change every second:  a thick forest, a tunnel, a steep and narrow gorge...then farmland. We were starting to get a taste for Japan. There are so many roads in the countryside that it is easy to get lost. Thankfully, our local boy Hirata was there to guide us toward our destination without fault.

   Our last ride in the afternoon led us down a winding river valley. The clear stream snaked back and forth, the road with it all the way. Stoic cranes could be seen, still, waiting patiently on rocks for the next meal. Farmers were busy working the soil, getting the next crop ready. The traffic was slight, and the road was, as always, in a perfect state of cleanliness.

   We pulled into our hotel fairly early, but everyone agreed that it was enough riding for them to be satisfied. We checked into the hotel and the riders had time to relax, soak in the hot springs and stroll along the river which bordered the hotel. I went down to the river, and could see some koi swimming lazily in the clear stream. Cherry trees lined the banks of the river and all of the landscaping was fashioned in the usual elegant Japanese way.

    At dinner, we had three different things on fire at each of our tables. Steak, crab and cabbage, and rice cooked in front of us on these mini tables as we drank beer and sake and pecked at pickled stuff and sashimi. All of it was delicious.

   After dinner, Mr. Hirata started it. It was his favorite: Elvis. The "Party Dam" karaoke machine had been sitting idle on a small stage at the end of the room, and now it was time.  Kareoke is a funny thing, and it seems to spread like wildfire. It is like the plague. First, Hirata lead with Elvis, then Akiko and Jessica followed with "Dancing Queen" by Abba. The rest of the night is history. There were so many laughs that my stomach began to hurt. I realized that even though most people do not want to participate in Kareoke, they can't help but jump up there in a fit of stardom, alcohol and adrenaline, and do their stuff.  And indeed, stuff was done. So what if I sang "El Condor Pasa" while wearing a rubber horse head and a skin tight monkey suite.....